Tuesday, March 19: After breakfast at 8:30, we packed our things. Ruth and Carlos drove us to catch the 10:45 bus. We bought water and sandwiches for the trip. There were scattered clouds and it was cooler, but it was a great day for traveling. Since the entire trip was in the daylight this time, we got to see much more of the countryside than we had on the way down. South of the Pampas there were a number of individual farm houses, clusters of houses, and even little villages along the road.

The bus arrived in B.A. early, at 3:30. Fortunately, Martinez always arrives early, and he got there the same time we did, again accompanied by his wife. We discussed the trip to Colonia as he drove us to the Circulo Militar, asking him to make the arrangements.

We were leaving for Salta very early the next morning, so once more we repacked. Still having a little leisure time, we walked down Florida Street again, this time paying more attention to the shops. Although prices in Argentina were generally high, clothing seemed quite reasonable. Leather goods (belts, purses, coats) were less than comparable items in the U.S. We didn't buy anything, though, because we had decided to put off shopping until the following Tuesday, our last day in Argentina. That way, we wouldn't have to carry our purchases around or add them to our repacking routine.

Just as we got back to the Circulo at 6:30, Carlos was on the phone. He came by at 7:15 and had a coffee with us in the Circulo's cafeteria. When he left, we decided to just stay there and order an early dinner in view of our need to get up so early in the morning. We got to bed about 10:30.

Wednesday, March 20: We got up at five a.m. as planned. It was too early for Martinez to come, so Carlos had arranged for a private car (remises) to take us to the airport. George, our driver, arrived promptly at 5:45 and had us at Newbery Aeroparque by six. After checking our bags, we had coffee and a croissant at the bar. The plane left on time (7:15), and the 1,000 mile flight was uneventful.

Hotel Salta

As soon as we had checked in, I walked to the travel agency (half a block) and complained about their failure to have a car meet us.. They apologized but had no explanation. They also informed him that they had shuffled our tours around so we would have the two long tours on consecutive days, instead of getting a day at the estancia (ranch) in between to rest up.

They also called Rene', whose ranch we were supposed to visit on Saturday, so he could find out exactly what we wanted to do on our visit. He spoke English and was the friendliest and most solicitous person. We realized for the first time that we would be the only guests at his ranch that day and would get really personal attention. Rene' worked in another nearby travel office that specialized in El Tren a las Nubes (The Train to the Clouds).

I returned to the hotel, and we unpacked. It was a little before eleven, and the city tour that was part of our package didn't start until 3:30. Since we had a few hours free, we went out to explore the town on our own. We walked through, then around the Plaza de 9 Julio. There was an elaborate fountain in the center. On the north side was the cathedral, completed in 1882. A Mass was underway, so we continued around the square. Next to the cathedral was the Archbishop's Palace, of the same age, with an ornate wooden lattice screening the front balcony.

Jane, fountain & cathedral

Cathedral spire

Archbishop's palace

There were three large buildings on the west side of the square with very contrasting architectural styles (English, French and Italian), but each attractive in it own right. The 1780 Cabildo (town hall) was on the south side of the square. All of the other buildings on the square were relatively modern.

San Francisco church  & buildings on the Plaza

From our hotel window, we had seen the tower of the late 18th century Church of San Francisco, featured on brochures of the city. It was only a block to the east of our hotel, so we headed there next. The ornate tower and facade of the church were added in 1870 and certainly made it look more Spanish. By then it was after noon and we were getting very hungry. We walked to La Posta restaurant (recommended by Rene') and had pasta for lunch. We'd already been up for eight hours by the time we finished eating, so we went back to the hotel to rest.

San Bernardo chapel doors

A little before 3:30 we went back to the square for the city tour. It was not in a large bus, as we had expected, but in an eleven-passenger van. We were the last on board and had to sit in the rear seats. The driver was also the guide, and he had no microphone. It was difficult to hear him, so we understood even less of the Spanish commentary than we had expected. The van started in familiar territory, driving around the Plaza de 9 Julio, then to the Church of San Francisco. Then we proceeded two more blocks to the Church and Convent of San Bernardo. The first hermitage on the site was built in the 16th century, but the oldest of the present buildings (the chapel) dates to from the early 1700s. They claimed the old wooden doors of the chapel are from the original hermitage. That would make them more than 400 years old.

Salta seen from San Bernardo hill

The van then headed up San Bernardo hill (4500 ft.), just east of the city. There is a great panoramic view of Salta. A gondola lift also runs to the top of the hill from San Martin Park in the city. They had an elaborate system of wide concrete channels up there, culminating in several waterspouts all directed into a single basin. The only problem was that there was no water in the system and apparently never has been.

The tour continued on to the Monument to Guermes, a local hero of the War of Independence. Then we drove out of the city to a wealthy residential area. It was a hot, sunny day, and the van stopped along the road there so we could get something to drink at the Castillo, a very fancy bar and restaurant. Back in town, we stopped at a street of shops selling locally made handicrafts. We didn't notice until too late that there was an artisans' museum in the park right across the street with several government-sponsored shops.

It was eight p.m. by the time we got back to the hotel. After a short rest, we had the fixed price dinner in the hotel restaurant. The main course was fish, but Jane never got any. In the course of her negotiating the substitution of numerous other vegetables for a spinach dish she didn't want, the waiter apparently got the impression that she was substituting for the whole dinner. The dinner included a  Torrentes' white wine from nearby Cafayate that is quite renowned in Argentina. It had an amber color, and we thought it had a pronounced taste of sherry - somewhere between white wine and sherry.

It had been a long day, and we had to get up early again the next morning. We went to bed at 10:30.

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