Jane & Major Sola' on old subway

Monday, March 11: We were up by eight. After I ran out to a nearby store for sugar and jam, we had breakfast in our room.  Major Sola', who works for Carlos, arrived at ten to take us sightseeing. By subway ("subte" for subterraneo), we went to the Plaza de Mayo, the main square. We rode in one of the original old cars from B.A.'s first subway, dating to about 1910. 

 

Unfortunately, it was a very overcast day. Government House (a.k.a. Casa Rosada or the Pink House), the President's office but not his residence, is located at one end of the square. We had our photo taken with one of the grenaderos guarding the entrance. The cathedral and the Cabildo (old city hall building erected in 1725 on the site of a 16th Century predecessor) are the other major buildings on the square.

Guard at Casa Rosada

Plaza de Mayo  with Casa Rosada in background

The Cabildo (1725)

Grenaderos in Plaza S. Martin

We walked down Florida Street all the way to Plaza San Martin where the Circulo Militar was. We cashed some travelers checks at American Express. By the time we came out, it was pouring. The street was filled with 18th Century-uniformed grenaderos on horseback getting ready for a parade, but the rain was forcing them to cover their uniforms with yellow ponchos.
 

Colorful old truck in San Telmo

We caught the subway back to the Plaza de Mayo and walked down Defensa Street (so named for its role in the British invasion of 1806) into San Telmo, one of the oldest neighborhoods. We walked by the Basilica of San Francisco (1754), which was closed, to the Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary (1773). In front of that church stands the mausoleum of General Belgrano, hero of the War of Independence from Spain. Across the street was the 18th century La Estrella chemist's shop (pharmacy) that preserved its centuries old appearance.

By this time it was raining hard. We ducked into a modern cafe, pursuadng Major Sola' to let us buy him lunch. Afterward he took us walking in the rain trying to find a bus stop. We finally prevailed on him to catch a taxi. The taxi fare to our condo was $1.90; it would have cost $1.50 on the bus - if we had ever found one.

After resting for a while, we took a load of clothes to the laundramat on the corner, then explored the neighborhood while it was washed and dried. In addition to numerous little grocery stores, bakeries, cafes, and similar shops, there must have been more than twenty tapestry shops. Apparently this was the area where most of them were located.

Carlos had Martinez pick us up at 6:45. We picked up Carlos at his apartment, then drove a short way to the Recoleta, a very elite neighborhood built around and named after the cemetery where the nation's heroes and other rich or famous people are buried. Carlos took us to the Basilica of Our Lady of Pilar, built in 1732, with a large altar of silver. We briefly walked along the wall of the adjacent convent, now secular and lined with elegant shops, cafes and restaurants. We had a coffee at the pricey Cafe de la Paix in front of the church.

Darrell & Carlos in front of  Our Lady of Pilar church

Altar of Pilar church

Coffee at the Cafe de la Paix

Martinez dropped us at the Church of Nuestra Senora de Soccoro, which we visited briefly. Then we went across the street to Le Ligure, a favorite restaurant of Carlos, for an "early" dinner. It was only 8:30. Jane had lomo (beef tenderloin). Feeling adventurous, I had rabbit, something I hadn't tasted since about 1944. ("Tastes just like chicken.") I managed to get the bill, a rare feat when with our Argentine friends.

We told Carlos that we wanted to take a bus tour of the city the next day and asked if Martinez could arrange it. Carlos assured us he'd take care of it and said he'd phone us the next morning with details. We walked the few blocks to Carlos' apartment so he could get his car. He dropped us at the Condo at 11:30. Thank goodness it was an early dinner.

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