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ALPINE REPRISE
14 - 27 September 2014

Retorgole


Us with Elfie in her home
Thursday, 18 September. We left about 9:30 for Retorgole, north of Vicenza and about 50 miles from Verona, to visit our dear friend, Elfie Ditore. She will be 90 in April 2015. Although she walks with a cane or pushes a sort of walker outside, she is still the feisty person she always was.

We had called Elfie on the phone a couple times to arrange our visit, and sometimes we were not sure she knew who we were. We were really worried when we arrived at her house and got no answer when we rang the bell.  We were sitting in the car pondering what to do when suddenly, and entirely by coincidemce, her daughter drove up and greeted us. She had a key and found her mother in the shower, unable to hear the doorbell. After that we had a pleasant and relaxing day with Elfie.

Friday, 19 September. We spent a nostalgic morning with Elfie, all of us realizing that this might well be our last farewell. She begged us to stay, and we really regretted that we had not planned to spend more time with her. However, she is a few years older than us and, judging by our phone calls, we had no idea what to expect.

We left shortly before noon. She wanted us to stay longer but our schedule was already locked in and we had to leave.

Marostica to Borgo


Marostica's walls on hill ahead

Best view of walled town
We were taking small roads north into the Alps instead of using the autostrada. This gave us the opportunity to visit a number of Italian towns we remembered from the 1960s. We drove through Nove, where we had shopped for ceramics several times, then continued on to nearby Marostica, a well-preserved walled town.

Marostica is most famous for the spectacular game of chess (La Partita a Scacchi) held every second year with live chess pieces on a huge outdoor chess board. The latest game was held just a few days before, on the weekend we left on this trip. All the fences and barricades were still in place around the square, an inconvenience for us but also a novelty since we had never seen this arrangement before


Poster for 2014 chess game

Chess board & stands
seen from Castello Inferiore

Castello Inferiore

Rooks used in chess game

Jane in castle courtyard

Ram float used in parade


l'Angelo e il Diavolo Pizzeria

Ristorante Castello Superiore
We has pizza for lunch at l'Angelo e il Diavolo on Piazza Castello, the main square. Then we drove up the steep and narrow road to the Castello Superiore (Upper Castle). We visited the upscale restaurant there where he had eaten dinner with old friends decades before. We had bought a souvenir plate at the time, and one of our friends (Tony Marcucci) had insisted on paying for it. (The plate was broken in 1973 in our move from Germany to Charlottesville. I glued the pieces together and we still treasure it.)


Drive up to Castello Superiore

View down to Castello Inferiore

Jane inside Ristorante

Marostica is very near to Bassano del Grappa, a charming little town we had visited several times before. However, we decided to skip it this time and get started on our drive north into the Alps.


Borgo Valsugana


The Locanda 1775 (red & yellow)

We were heading for the Valsugana (Sugana River Valley) and the little town of Borgo, where we had purchased a large round copper coffee table in 1962. We had  reservations at the 1775 Locanda in Borgo, a fancy B&B that occupied two adjoining 1775 buildings. The interior of the old buildings had been gutted, and the new interior was ultramodern. Jane said the huge bathroom alone was worth the price of the room.

By the time we got settled, it was almost 4:00, but we decided to take advantage of the remaining daylight to do a little sightseeing. The principle attraction in the area was the Arte Sella, an internationally acclaimed "exhibition of works of art created in nature with nature."


"Cathedral" made from branches


"Wolves" made of sticks

 Thinking that it would not take very long, we decided to drive up to see it. It turned out that the "works of art" were scattered through several miles of woods at varying distances from a narrow winding road. Also, because they are made from natural materials, the art works were often had to spot. In a mostly fruitless hour of driving trying to find a good place to stop and see it, we only saw an occasional exhibit. The Arte Sella was clearly meant to be seen on foot on an hours long hike. 
 


What the awning says


Along the Brenta River

By the time we returned to the Locanda, it was starting to get dark. On the recommendation of the hotelkeeper, we walked to the little restaurant San Giorgio for dinner. It was an excellent choice. Afterward we walked along the Brenta River and through a few blocks of the old town.




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