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Jane in sculptue garden

Thursday, 13 August. We arrived in Speyer about 9:00 and left on the walking tour 20 minutes later. It was cool and overcast, but at least there was no rain. We walked through a large park, eventually coming to a sculpture garden with beautiful flowers. We saw sculptures depicting the legend of the ferryman who transported ghosts of deceased German emperors across the Rhine, where they joined the Battle of Liepzig against Napoleon in 1813.

A short distance further we came to the Kaiserdom (Imperial Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption and St Stephen), begun in 1030 and said to be the world's largest Romanesque church. (Our group didn't go inside then, but we returned later during our free time.) The Tour Director then led us into a charming old neighborhood from where we also had a good view back to the Cathedral. We visited St. Magdalena Convent where Edith Stein once lived (1923-1931). A Jew who converted to Catholicism and eventually became a nun, she was murdered in the gas chambers of Auschwitz in 1942.
 


Speyer's Kaiserdom

Cathedral seen from old neighborhood

Edith Stein placque at convent

Interior of the Kaiserdom

When our tour broke up, we headed back to the Cathedral to explore the interior. It was huge, but not very ornate. We then walked down the main street toward the Old Gate, stopping along the way to get Jane an ice cream. We were just about to start walking down Judenstrasse back toward the ship when it started raining fairly hard. So we caught a city bus instead. It took us very close to the ship, although we had a minor problem finding our way across some railroad tracks.
 


Old Mint building on Maximillian Street

Old city gate

Museum with witches (hexen) exhibit

Lunch was early, at noon, because we were going on home-hosted visits with local families at 2:30. These are a feature of all GCT tours. We drew the most distant home and, with two other couples, were dropped off last, at about 3:20. Our host, apparently a farmer, was most gracious and informative, but his wife was ill and couldn't join us. After we'd had more than enough cake and coffee, he showed us the entire house, even the storage and utility rooms. The home was heated by hot water from solar panel on the roof, supplemented by burning agricultural waste to heat more water when necessary. So he buys no fuel to heat his house.

Naturally, our group was also picked up last, about 5:30, but with no stops or detours along the way, we were onboard the ship by 6:00. Dinner was at 7:00 as usual. We were in bed when the ship sailed for Greffern at 11:00.

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