Basilica of the Assumption

Sunday, 19 July: We were up at 6:00 and on the bus at 8:00, on our way to Krakow. The bus got to the Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Czestchowa shortly after noon. Because it was a Sunday, the place was mobbed. (But nothing like it is on August 15 when 250,000 pilgrims descend on it.) 

 

We gathered in the flag-draped Knights' Hall where we met our local guide, a monk with a great sense of humor. There we had a chance to study close up "an exact replica" of the famous Black Madonna. Then we went to see the original, above the altar in a relatively small shrine within the Basilica. There was a wedding taking place in the chapel. One by one we entered a small door in the front of the chapel and walked a few steps down a narrow aisle (right next to the bride and groom), turned and looked back at the Madonna and child. Unlike the replica, the original figures are overlaid with rich garments, covering all but their faces.

 

Knights' Hall

Black Madonna

Black Madonna Shrine

Inside the Basillica

We passed a window commemorating Pope John Paul II's visit, and also went through the treasury containing many precious offerings to the Madonna. Finally, we fought through the throngs for a look inside the elaborate main basilica.

After another big lunch at a Czestachowa restaurant, we continued on toward Krakow. Katie suggested leaving the main road and driving through a national park scattered with small castles once forming a defensive line along Poland's southern mountains. We stopped at the foot of one such castle, very close to a tall rock formation known as Hercules club. A little further on there was a picturesque wooden chapel, very Russian-looking.

Hercules' club

Small castle

Wooden chapel

Krakow

The bus got to the Continental Hotel in Krakow about 4:45 p.m. This hotel was nicer than the Forum in Warsaw, but also had no air conditioning. It was not centrally located, either. It was on the edge of town. We had to rush to unpack and get ready for the optional outing to the Ariel Cafe. This Jewish Heritage tour, led by a local guide (Maria), left the hotel at seven and took us through the World War II ghetto area. We stopped at Oskar Schindler's factory with its distinctive iron gate. Then we drove out to Kasimierz, a village founded in the 14th century by Jews at a time when they were not allowed to live in Krakow. It was long a separate town but now is part of Krakow. Much of the movie "Schindler's List" was filmed in this village because it had no modern buildings.

A few of the original seven synagogues survive to various degrees.  The oldest of these, called the Old Synagogue (Synagoga Stara), was built in the 1570s, replacing a 14th century predecessor destroyed in a fire. It was restored again after the Nazis severely damaged it. For the most part, though, the synagogues were indistinguishable from the secular buildings around them. We visited a Reform Temple being restored at government expense. We were surprised to learn that the Polish government is spending large sums restoring former Jewish buildings and turning them over to the Jewish "community," even though there are no more than 200 Jews in all of Krakow. All in all, our walking tour of Kasimierz was not too interesting. Ah, but the Ariel Cafe more than made up for it.

Gate at Schindler's Factory

Old Synagogue

The two Ariel Cafes

This little cafe sits on a small square that faces the Old Synagogue. Oddly, it is next door to another establishment also called the Ariel Cafe. (The white building, #18, is our Ariel Cafe.) We were greeted outside by a group of costumed Ukrainian musicians. After we were seated inside, they were joined by a girl singer and entertained us with lively music, getting us to sing along with several songs. A "complimentary" glass of buffalo grass vodka became two for me as a non-drinker passed his glass on. Then the glasses were refilled, so Jane suddenly had a another glass and I had two more. I mixed mine with apple juice and managed to finish three glasses. Jane drank hers straight and got through one and a half.

Ukrainian musicians

Violinist

Feeling no pain

We ate burdytchov (cabbage) soup, roast beef, potato croquettes, and a nut cake. The food was excellent. The first group of musicians was followed by another, four men, specializing in Yiddish music. The young violinist was outstanding. Several of us commented that he was too good to be playing here. We even bought their tape. (All the groups that performed for us during the whole trip sold their tapes and CDs after their performance.) That was probably the most enjoyable evening of the tour. It was 11:15 before we got back to the hotel.