02-lisbon;bullfight;alfama

Placa do Touros

Poster for today

Sunday, 2 April (continued). After a stop for lunch (good food, bad service), the bus took us to the Placa do Touros (bull ring) for a bullfight at 1515. The event started with great pageantry. All the various participants (except the bull) lined up in formation in the ring.

We knew they didn't kill the bull in a Portuguese bullfight, but we discovered there are many other significant differences from the Spanish version. First, two horsemen (cavaleiros) harried and weakened the bull by sticking banderilleros in its hump.

Darrell in the arena

Opening ceremonies

Cavaleiro lancing the bull

Next, several men on foot (forcados) lined up in a row in front of the bull and absorbed his charge until their combined weight actually stopped the bull. As the bull weakened (mostly from the banderillos), the forcados twisted its horns and once even forced it to fall to the ground. In the next stage of the bullfight, two men on foot (toureiros or matadores) took turns fighting the weakened bull with cape and sword, but only made a symbolic “kill.”

The bull charges the forcados

They'll do anything to stop that bull

The bull charges the cape

As if that wasn't enough, another cavaliero harassed the poor bull that by now could barely move. The bull was not killed in the ring, but we were told that he would be slaughtered afterwards. Although it was an interesting spectacle, it certainly wasn't sporting.

Looking down a wide stairway

A church in the Alfama district

By the time the bus got us back to the hotel it was about 17:30, but there was still plenty of sunshine. While Jane rested, I took a taxi back to the Alfama with two of the teachers from our group (Barbara and Brenda). All three of us were enchanted by the place and just had to see more of it.

Built on one of Lisbon's seven hills, Alfama is very hilly. There are steps everywhere, some wide, some narrow, but all very picturesque. This is the oldest part of the city and, as is usually the case, home to some of the poorest inhabitants. Most of the buildings date back to the four centuries of Moorish occupation (8th-12th century).

Another stairway

S. Jorge Castle seen from Alfama

Alfama woman willing to pose

We roamed the area for nearly two hours, until the sun was long gone. They finally got back to the hotel about 20:00, just in time for dinner. That evening, Jane joined others from our group at a night club featuring Fado, Portugal’s beautiful and touching, yet very sad, classic-folk singing.

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