Sunday, 11 June. We woke up at Kelheim, site of the last lock on the Canal. There was a confluence a short distance ahead of the ship, so I guess we were not quite into the Danube. On top of the steep hill above the ship we could see Liberation Hall (Befreiungshalle)(1863). Commissioned by Ludwig I of Bavaria, this nearly 200 feet high Greco-Roman style temple was dedicated on the 50th anniversary of Napoleon’s defeat at the Battle of Leipzig, an event which ultimately led to the unification of the hitherto splintered German states. 

We had signed up for the vaguely-named optional tour “Bavaria, Baroque and Beer”, that left at 08:30, and a visit to the monument was our first stop. It really was impressive, and there was also a great view from the top.

Liberation Hall from the hilltop

Interior of Liberation Hall

View of Danube Gorge from hilltop

Next the bus took us to the Weltenburg Abbey (founded 620), on the Danube a few miles from Kelheim. Not only is this the oldest monastery in Bavaria, but it’s the oldest monastery brewery in the world, operating since 1050. Included in our tour was a large stein of their dark Kloster Barock Dunkel (2004 award for the best dark beer in the world.) The beer was good, but it was barely mid-morning, a bit early in the day for it.

Crowd waits outside abbey church

We had free time after the beer and visited the church (1716-1751) next to the beer garden. The interior was beautiful, but there was a Mass going on so we decided to look around outside first. This was Trinity Sunday and there was a large crowd waiting outside the church, and also a group of musicians in Bavarian costumes. When the Mass let out, the band started playing and fell in behind the priest. Soon a long procession was forming. We took advantage of the chance to go back into the church for a better look. When we came out, it was time to rejoin our tour group. As we left the courtyard, the procession was coming around the outside of the walls, and we waited for it to pass.

 

Interior of abbey church

Trinity Sunday procession

Detail of magnificent altar

 We all walked a short way down the Danube to the dock where we would catch the 11:00 ferry for a trip through the scenic Danube Gorge. As gorges go, it was rather small, but still it was a very pleasant ride. The weather was perfect.

The Danube Gorge from the ferry

Our ferry hugs the port side

Liberation Hall from the Danube Gorge

 

East end of Ludwig's Main-Danube Canal

The ferry actually took us back to Kelheim. Just before we docked, we saw a remnant of the older Main-Danube Canal (1846), another project of Ludwig I. Interesting, Charlemagne had the first Main-Danube canal dug in 793, but there is no evidence that it ever operated. The present canal was built from 1960 to 1992.

We didn’t board our ship at Kelheim. Instead, we walked leisurely through the town to the main square where we had a little free time. Since it was Sunday, none of the shops were open, but the town was very pretty.

 

Intersection in Kelheim (with Matthias)

Our group entering the main square

Jane in the main square

Soon our bus arrived and had us to the ship, now in Regensburg, by 13:00 for lunch. 

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